One of the most frustrating parts of working on these w126s is the way in which Mercedes decided to light all of their console switches and instrument cluster. Being high tech, they went with a fiber optic system that delivers light via an external socket. Let me get more into detail here.
The two areas that people most often come in contact with these fiber optics is the instrument cluster and the center console. First lets tackle the instrument cluster. The cluster has long been a point of contention with Mercedes owners as these cars grow older, since the lighting becomes worse and worse until the driver (dangerously) cannot read the gauges at night. Problem number one is the rheostat. The springs that the company used in the rheostat fail pretty commonly. This results in NO lights whatsoever. I recommend jumping the rheostat, which consists of simply putting a jumper wire between the two solder joints on the board. If you want to do any LED modification or anything you'd have too do this anyways to help regulate the current.
The bigger problem with the instrument cluster is the delivery of light to the gauge faces themselves. The bulbs are located in the back of the instrument cluster next to the blinker bulbs. Easy to replace for sure, but if you look closely the light has to travel through crystals over the top of the plastic housing and then refract back down on the instruments. In the bulb sockets themselves, about 90% of the clusters that I have seen have black charring (presumably from long time burning of bulbs, perhaps incorrect bulbs?) on the face of the fiber optic prisms. I have also seen the prisms melted from having too hot of a bulb in there--obviously this doesn't help either. In addition, all sorts of dust can get caught in there and is very difficult to clean. My solution was to completely bypass the fiber optics in the instrument cluster and go with a homemade LED setup. I mounted the LEDs where the prisms came out to light the gauges, and soldered them back to the bulb sockets. The LEDs were actually far too bright so I had to shield some of the light with electrical tape...even that is still very bright, but that is my preference for dash lighting.
On to the center console. All of the switches on the top of the console except for hazard lights --rear reading lights, defrost, sunroof, and antenna (may be more depending on options) are lit by means of fiber optic cables in back of the dash. There is one light strand, much like a christmas tree wire, powering all the climate control and switch lights. I believe these are wired in series so if one bulb goes out, the following will also go out. There are 4 bulbs located in the climate control unit (I will get to that in a second) and one bulb reaches back into the firewall to a cluster commonly called either and octopus or a spider. The fiber optic wires coming off of it go to each of the top switches, and one goes down into the shifter console to light the PRNDSL selection. Conveniently, my octopus was completely torn apart by the previous owner who pretty much scrapped the whole interior. After many hours of toiling I recommend just forgetting about it, you won't easily get those fiber optic cables back into the octopus--it is so far back against the firewall, it gives almost no room to work, especially for a precise placement of these wires.
Back to the light strand. The first two bulbs on the strand light the left side of the climate control--the wheel and left couple buttons. Then, the strand reaches back to the firewall where ONE bulb (stock bulbs are pretty dim) lights all of the switches and center console, then the next two bulbs return to the climate control to light the right flap buttons and fan speed/auto buttons. Since I gave up on the octopus, none of my switches light up except for the hazard lights, and I replaced my climate control bulbs with LEDs to compliment the blue feel of the car. Any questions please leave in comments section. Thanks!
Saturday, April 9, 2011
Friday, March 25, 2011
5 minute DIY - Installing a boost gauge in 300SD
Really, this install could not be easier. I picked up a cheapo boost/vacuum gauge from Harbor Freight for about $20, came with about 3-4 feet of vacuum tube, a plastic tee connection, and some crappy bracketry. Not only was it cheap, but it is extremely cheesy as well, allowing the user to select any number of colors to look super cool! Being that my SD is already cool and particularly riced-out on the inside, this fit perfectly within the decor. The easiest place to tap into the boost is with the overboost protection line running from a banjo bolt on the intake manifold over the top of the valve cover into a little cylindrical gizmo on the driver's side fender. What this does is it monitors the boost and sends a signal to the ALDA which eventually regulates the amount of fuel going into the injector pump, thus limiting boost. However, most turbos 30 years old are not putting out a whole lot of boost - thus the case for a boost gauge. While you're working on the boost line, it is a good idea to unscrew the banjo bolt (don't lose it like I did last year...) and give it a really good cleaning. They can get clogged up with soot and stuff over the years which will limit the performance of your car as well as render the boost gauge inaccurate. Furthermore, it only takes 30 seconds of your time and is a good practice every couple years.
Anyways, regarding the gauge - I tapped in right before the overboost protection solenoid in order to give me as much vacuum hose as possible going into the cabin. Unfortunately, being a piece of crap, the tee that came with the gauge broke almost immediately. Luckily I had another tee on hand that fit a little better, and used that to tap into the line. A boost gauge such as this requires the vacuum/boost hose to go through the firewall into the passenger compartment, and there are a few ways to do this. The tubing that came with the crappy gauge was very thick and I didn't have any spare hard tubing available. Therefore I chose to route it in the same grommet as the hood release cable, between the fuse box and fender. There was a plugged space available (not sure why...), all you need to do is unplug it and route the hose through. A good trick is to stick an unbent coathanger in the tubing to stiffen it, then route it into the cabin. That way, the flexible tubing won't bunch up and you won't have to crawl uncomfortably around the pedal area.
You can mount the gauge wherever you please, but the most logical for me was right under the ignition tumbler, since it was out of the way yet still visible. There is a trim piece that uses a screw along with a trim clip to secure against the top dash. This was solid enough to mount the gauge. I had some 90* steel brackets left over from an electronic drum kit I made, so I bent one to shape and screwed it in. Attach the boost line to the back of the gauge and you've got a working gauge. As far as wiring, I installed a radio at the same time, so I decided to use the 12V+ and illumination wires from that to also power the gauge LED. The ground just went to a chassis spot. In all, it took me longer to write this than it did to install the gauge in the car. Any questions just comment and I'll be happy to answer.
Pics are still coming. I had written this a while ago, never got around to posting it, but unfortunately my camera is MIA :(
Anyways, regarding the gauge - I tapped in right before the overboost protection solenoid in order to give me as much vacuum hose as possible going into the cabin. Unfortunately, being a piece of crap, the tee that came with the gauge broke almost immediately. Luckily I had another tee on hand that fit a little better, and used that to tap into the line. A boost gauge such as this requires the vacuum/boost hose to go through the firewall into the passenger compartment, and there are a few ways to do this. The tubing that came with the crappy gauge was very thick and I didn't have any spare hard tubing available. Therefore I chose to route it in the same grommet as the hood release cable, between the fuse box and fender. There was a plugged space available (not sure why...), all you need to do is unplug it and route the hose through. A good trick is to stick an unbent coathanger in the tubing to stiffen it, then route it into the cabin. That way, the flexible tubing won't bunch up and you won't have to crawl uncomfortably around the pedal area.
You can mount the gauge wherever you please, but the most logical for me was right under the ignition tumbler, since it was out of the way yet still visible. There is a trim piece that uses a screw along with a trim clip to secure against the top dash. This was solid enough to mount the gauge. I had some 90* steel brackets left over from an electronic drum kit I made, so I bent one to shape and screwed it in. Attach the boost line to the back of the gauge and you've got a working gauge. As far as wiring, I installed a radio at the same time, so I decided to use the 12V+ and illumination wires from that to also power the gauge LED. The ground just went to a chassis spot. In all, it took me longer to write this than it did to install the gauge in the car. Any questions just comment and I'll be happy to answer.
Pics are still coming. I had written this a while ago, never got around to posting it, but unfortunately my camera is MIA :(
Thursday, March 3, 2011
DIY w126 cupholder part 1
There was a day back when cars actually did NOT have cupholders. My Mercedes, both w124 and w126 like to constantly remind me of this fact practically every day. Yet, there is a clunky pull-out ashtray and cigarette lighter that almost never works, go figure. Let's exchange one for another, shall we?
Taking apart the old ashtray
Taking the old ashtray apart revealed a couple things...1 - that it was incredibly simply designed with a plastic tray and pop-up lighter on a spring. 2. The front wood was just glued on. 3. It was asking for a mod.
You can see that it simply slid on rails, here is the outer housing:
Therefore, you could make a thin board-like structure to slide in and out--this was the idea behind my design. I wanted to keep it pretty simple, no metalwork, no hard cutting, nothing too crazy. Here's what I've done so far:
1. Cut out a template from cardboard
Traced out the circles, I used a coffee mug as a template...then cut those bad boys out! Here is the rough idea - it should look similar to this once finished (without the tear):
Next step was to cover everything in either fabric or fiberglass. I had an old flannel sheet lying around and flannel happens to be PERFECT for this type of application. A lot of custom audio guys use flannel soaked in resin as a base for custom speaker boxes. It isn't perfectly flat, but will be decent once the resin soaks the fabric:
Next, mix up the resin/hardener to specification (1/10 can of resin = 1/10 tube of hardener) and thoroughly soak the whole thing, however not leaving any excess resin floatting around. Stick a sheet of release paper (I use wax paper, it isn't too bad) under it so it doesn't bond to whatever surface it is drying on. Here it is, soaked in resin:
Right now it is curing. Part 2 will be following a good night's sleep and 8 hours of work.
Taking apart the old ashtray
Taking the old ashtray apart revealed a couple things...1 - that it was incredibly simply designed with a plastic tray and pop-up lighter on a spring. 2. The front wood was just glued on. 3. It was asking for a mod.
You can see that it simply slid on rails, here is the outer housing:
Therefore, you could make a thin board-like structure to slide in and out--this was the idea behind my design. I wanted to keep it pretty simple, no metalwork, no hard cutting, nothing too crazy. Here's what I've done so far:
1. Cut out a template from cardboard
Next step was to cover everything in either fabric or fiberglass. I had an old flannel sheet lying around and flannel happens to be PERFECT for this type of application. A lot of custom audio guys use flannel soaked in resin as a base for custom speaker boxes. It isn't perfectly flat, but will be decent once the resin soaks the fabric:
Right now it is curing. Part 2 will be following a good night's sleep and 8 hours of work.
Monday, February 28, 2011
March check in - lots of good content coming!
March 1st check in! I have been diligently working to get my diesel on the road. Although I have to work full time and complete papers for school I've been able to get about 6 a day the past few days to work on the car. I've been taking pictures as I go and they will provide for some more good DIY info. Some of the upcoming topics:
- Boost gauge install
- Another radio install (this would be my 4th in MBs, lost count in other vehicles)
- Rust repair in wheel well
- climate control lights and the fiber optic spider/octopus.
- Slide out cupholder where ashtray was
- more custom back speaker deck pictures and resurfacing/reupholstering to match blue interior
- Boost gauge install
- Another radio install (this would be my 4th in MBs, lost count in other vehicles)
- Rust repair in wheel well
- climate control lights and the fiber optic spider/octopus.
- Slide out cupholder where ashtray was
- more custom back speaker deck pictures and resurfacing/reupholstering to match blue interior
Thursday, February 10, 2011
W126 (300SD) custom 6x9" speaker and back deck install
I wrote up this how-to for one of the forums, recently dug it up and realized how awesome this build was. Let me first start out by saying I'm an audiophile and there is nothing that annoys me more than poorly placed/EQd speakers and poor quality music. When I got my w126 (Boxy, 1982 300SD) I was surprised to see that it had a digital FM radio and four speakers with fader. Good for the time 30 years ago, but things have changed. The old paper elements were almost certainly blown or rotted, and tiny in size so sound quality would certainly be an issue. Looking at the compartments on the rear deck (called a "hat rack" in the FSM
) I realized I could squeeze a couple of 6x9s in there with some elbow grease.
Things you'll need:
- Big board of wood, MDF is cheap and easy to work with, which is what I used.
- spray adhesive (3M super trim adhesive, $10)
- wood glue
- hand-held jig saw
- drill (for jig saw start points)
- Fabric. I used Vinyl from Jo-Ann, pretty thick and tough stuff. I used 30 inches of it. (Picture 9) I got the color almost exact to the existing trim.
- 2 speakers. The ones in the picture are dummy speakers, old ones I don't care if ruined.
- speaker template will make your life a lot easier. I didn't have one so I tried using a grille from another 6x9, which worked okay.
- staple gun
First, remove the rear sear and take off the "hat rack" per FSM instructions (basically take off side pillar covers then lift the thing out). This was kind of a pain since it was in there quite snugly. Once that is out, get yourself a big ol' board of wood.
Take your back deck and place it on the board of wood. This will serve as your template. Trace around the edges with sharpie to get a rough outline of the piece. Cut it out (picture 1). It will take a number of tries and quite a bit of trimming to get it perfect, but once you do, it will look great! One note: I chose to place it OVER the trunk hinge, you can also cut a notch from the board but I thought itd look ugly.
) I realized I could squeeze a couple of 6x9s in there with some elbow grease.Things you'll need:
- Big board of wood, MDF is cheap and easy to work with, which is what I used.
- spray adhesive (3M super trim adhesive, $10)
- wood glue
- hand-held jig saw
- drill (for jig saw start points)
- Fabric. I used Vinyl from Jo-Ann, pretty thick and tough stuff. I used 30 inches of it. (Picture 9) I got the color almost exact to the existing trim.
- 2 speakers. The ones in the picture are dummy speakers, old ones I don't care if ruined.
- speaker template will make your life a lot easier. I didn't have one so I tried using a grille from another 6x9, which worked okay.
- staple gun
First, remove the rear sear and take off the "hat rack" per FSM instructions (basically take off side pillar covers then lift the thing out). This was kind of a pain since it was in there quite snugly. Once that is out, get yourself a big ol' board of wood.
Take your back deck and place it on the board of wood. This will serve as your template. Trace around the edges with sharpie to get a rough outline of the piece. Cut it out (picture 1). It will take a number of tries and quite a bit of trimming to get it perfect, but once you do, it will look great! One note: I chose to place it OVER the trunk hinge, you can also cut a notch from the board but I thought itd look ugly.
Okay, so the next step is to figure out where you can place the speakers. I put them as far to each side as I could while still in the cubby holes. I placed a piece of paper over the holes, marked where the speakers were, then transferred it to my template. Fine-tune the placement (including symmetry and angle) of the speakers with the supplied template or grille and cut (measure twice cut once!!).
I decided to put spacers in to raise my speakers a bit. This was probably unnecessary but I didn't want them resting on the fuel tank. I simply traced around the speaker grille, measured an inch, then went around in the circle to connect the dots. (Picture 3) Drill holes, insert the saw, and cut away! Picture 4 is what I ended up with x2. Picture 5 shows them on the speaker.
After this, glue the spacers to the speaker holes, make sure everything is snug and where you want it (pictures 6&7). Let it dry a bit. At some point I thought it was a good idea to cut a hole in the deck for use with my subwoofer, which I have yet to install.
You're ready for the fabric! This is just like doing any car upholstry. I'll admit I am not very good at it, and it kinda shows. However, this isn't too bad, and the curves are all covered up by speakers! Anyway, stretch the fabric over the front. You could angle it at the spacers for a more "boxy" effect, but I chose not to. Use the spray adhesive to coat the entire front section, then apply the fabric. Use stuff to hold it down while it sets, and make sure there are no air bubbles. It dries very quickly so you have to work fast--hence why there are no pictures of this process.
Once it dries enough, turn it over and stretch it over the back. Staple it as much as you can so that there are no visible creases in the other side. Apply more adhesive if necessary.
Thats it!! Let the adhesive dry a bit more, throw it in the car, and install speakers! Picture 8 is the finished product with a few air pockets that need to be pressed out. In all it took me about 6 hours to do with trial and error, but the result is fantastic. When I get my subwoofer in place I will take care of the box air port I already cut (and re-glue the vinyl).
8
As for sound, even the dummy speakers are a vast improvement over stock. My only complaint about the sound quality is that there is not enough stereo separation, but only a minor complaint. As far as frequency setup, it is pretty good since the rear window deflects a lot of high frequencies directly toward the occupants.
As for sound, even the dummy speakers are a vast improvement over stock. My only complaint about the sound quality is that there is not enough stereo separation, but only a minor complaint. As far as frequency setup, it is pretty good since the rear window deflects a lot of high frequencies directly toward the occupants.
I will be reupholstering this deck in blue to match the white car's interior.
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Cruisin' Tunes (first installment)
Those of you who know me in real life (I do actually exist apart from the interwebs....) know I'm a music fanatic FAR more than my mercedes. Can you imagine that!? What this means is that I always have some bangin' tunes coming from my benz at any given moment--much like James May. See below:
So here's my chance to share some great music to play in the car. Being from 1982, my two diesels were just past the prime of funk, but decent cars from the 1970s are hard to come by so it'll do. I've got all of this stuff on vinyl (no I'm not joking) and play it regularly. Unfortunately turntables are not very interwebs friendly so prepare yourself for an onslaught of youtube videos.
The Brothers Johnson - Get the funk outta my face.
Apparently this was in the movie semi-pro judging by the youtube comments. I haven't seen that movie but I'm glad that this song is resurfacing in today's culture since it is so bitchin'. Just about any song from The Brothers Johnson is funkin' awesome (ha ha...ha...) and they are famous for the song Strawberry Letter 23.
Chuck Brown and the Soul Searchers - Bustin' Loose
The grandfather of Go-Go gets played in my Benzes all the time. This is one of my favorite songs and seems to incite random dance parties--always a good thing, right? Chuck Brown is still making music and recently released a song called "Block Party" if I remember correctly. It was nowhere near Bustin' Loose but more power to the guy for keeping it real all these years.
Switch II - Go on Doin' What you Feel
I remember buying this cd from one of those 50 cent used record bins in the basement of my local store. I hadn't heard of Switch II but they looked funky enough. This is more of a feel good song more than anything else and not overly funky like the last few.
Kinsman Dazz - And I Mean
This isn't the song I wanted but it'll do. The truly awesome song on this album is called "Dazzleberry Jam" which is the ultimate picker-upper (forget drugs). Multiple times I've had awful days, some rainy and wet, some just gloomy but when that song comes on it just makes me smile no matter what I'm doing or feeling. I will try and dig up the song but I absolutely couldn't find it on YouTube. However the one posted above is pretty good too--for me, this is one of the better funk albums I've got. Unfortunately Kinsman Dazz took a novedive and turned into the Dazz Band producing 80's synthpop like a lot of other bands at the end of the disco and funk eras.
Rose Royce - Put Your Money Where Your Mouth is
The Salsoul Orchestra - Getaway
The Salsoul Orchestra was a collection of Salsoul records artists who all got together and performed versions of their songs via orchestra. This is really a cover of Earth Wind & Fire's Getaway but an instrumental and more funky version. I totally dig it.
The Bar-Kays - Too Hot to Stop
Nice fun deep funk. I'm pretty sure that this song's title had something to do with the water pump failure in my 300SD. Coincidence?
My lunch break is now over...so I need to get back to work. More installments of Cruisin' Tunes to come with all sorts of genres. More funk to come for sure as well.
So here's my chance to share some great music to play in the car. Being from 1982, my two diesels were just past the prime of funk, but decent cars from the 1970s are hard to come by so it'll do. I've got all of this stuff on vinyl (no I'm not joking) and play it regularly. Unfortunately turntables are not very interwebs friendly so prepare yourself for an onslaught of youtube videos.
The Brothers Johnson - Get the funk outta my face.
Apparently this was in the movie semi-pro judging by the youtube comments. I haven't seen that movie but I'm glad that this song is resurfacing in today's culture since it is so bitchin'. Just about any song from The Brothers Johnson is funkin' awesome (ha ha...ha...) and they are famous for the song Strawberry Letter 23.
Chuck Brown and the Soul Searchers - Bustin' Loose
The grandfather of Go-Go gets played in my Benzes all the time. This is one of my favorite songs and seems to incite random dance parties--always a good thing, right? Chuck Brown is still making music and recently released a song called "Block Party" if I remember correctly. It was nowhere near Bustin' Loose but more power to the guy for keeping it real all these years.
Switch II - Go on Doin' What you Feel
I remember buying this cd from one of those 50 cent used record bins in the basement of my local store. I hadn't heard of Switch II but they looked funky enough. This is more of a feel good song more than anything else and not overly funky like the last few.
Kinsman Dazz - And I Mean
This isn't the song I wanted but it'll do. The truly awesome song on this album is called "Dazzleberry Jam" which is the ultimate picker-upper (forget drugs). Multiple times I've had awful days, some rainy and wet, some just gloomy but when that song comes on it just makes me smile no matter what I'm doing or feeling. I will try and dig up the song but I absolutely couldn't find it on YouTube. However the one posted above is pretty good too--for me, this is one of the better funk albums I've got. Unfortunately Kinsman Dazz took a novedive and turned into the Dazz Band producing 80's synthpop like a lot of other bands at the end of the disco and funk eras.
Rose Royce - Put Your Money Where Your Mouth is
T
The Car Wash soundtrack (which this is on) is my favorite funk album of all time. Come on and boogie y'all!The Salsoul Orchestra - Getaway
The Salsoul Orchestra was a collection of Salsoul records artists who all got together and performed versions of their songs via orchestra. This is really a cover of Earth Wind & Fire's Getaway but an instrumental and more funky version. I totally dig it.
The Bar-Kays - Too Hot to Stop
Nice fun deep funk. I'm pretty sure that this song's title had something to do with the water pump failure in my 300SD. Coincidence?
My lunch break is now over...so I need to get back to work. More installments of Cruisin' Tunes to come with all sorts of genres. More funk to come for sure as well.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
W126 LED taillight project
I wrote this up for one of the forums but it went underappreciated...it is definitely useful however, so it will live in eternity on my blog, woo!
A common criticism of driving an old mercedes (particularly a diesel with a cloud of black smoke behind) is the lack of visibility at night. I can always pick out a w123 or w126 from a distance because of the dimly lit, downward-facing running lights. Stepping on the brakes does not do too much either, unless you are blessed with a third center brake light. With that in mind, I realized that there was a large portion of the w126s taillights that are NOT being used at any given time. There is the inside red lens where the euro fog lights would go (but U.S. versions have nothing) as well as only half of the main red area being used for running lights. Since I have a spare w126 laying in the yard, I took one of the tails off of it to experiment and this writeup is a result of that experimenting. I have a working prototype and will be converting the other taillight as soon as I can run down to the parts store for another LED light. Advantages of this LED light setup:
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any harm or damage as a result of your following these directions. I am not implying or expressing that these taillights may be street legal in your local area.
Ok, so here is what you need:
- figures 1.1, 1.2: a DOT-approved 3 prong LED taillamp from NAPA, the type that you see on trailers and trucks. Cost about $25 if I remember correctly. Mine was about 3.5" diameter, filling up the whole red area of the tail light
- w126 tail lamp assembly
- soldering iron plus flux, shrink wrap, solder, and bullet-type electrical pins
- some way to cut plastic. Doesn't need to be pretty. I used a dremel with a variety of tips
- super glue
- about 1-2 hours of time
1. Completely disassemble the tail lamp. You'll have to separate the gasket (good time to replace it too), lens assembly, "reflector" assembly, and the metal strip with light sockets.
2. cut out room for the LED lamp in the reflector assembly. This takes some time and patience to get perfectly right. I got it after about an hour of trimming. You have to make sure to take the middle light separator out. Interesting note is that the plastic is crudely painted "reflective" silver. I can't imagine it doing much good in terms of light reflectivity.
3. Eventually get the LED snug in the reflector assembly so that it presses up against the lens/refractors (figures 3.1, 3.2). A couple dabs of super glue to the reflector assembly will make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Secure the screws to the lens, making it all one piece again. A good idea to test out the LED on a car battery for proof of concept (figure 3.3)
4. Wiring! Everybody's favorite thing! Actually it couldn't get ANY easier than this. First off, take either the bulb socket for the running lamp or the taillight and snip the wire off of it. Put that bulb socket in the "blank" space, where the euro fog light would go. The LED bulb I had already had the appropriate connections molded into the plastic: "tail", "ground" and "brake".
5. Plug it in and try it out! (Figure 5.1) See the difference--I apologize my camera is NOT good at taking night shots so it is difficult to see. The camera actually makes it look a bit worse than stock but I can guarantee you in person the difference is dramatic. Remember that LEDs produce one wavelength of light and bulbs produce a spectrum, I think that whatever the wavelength is for these LEDs is not well reproduced by my cheap camera whereas the spectrum is sort of a "flood" of light. Anyways, I noticed the normal taillights are not only pointing down and using 1/4 or so of the available space, but they are also amber colored. Using the LEDs brought light to the entire surface including the part FACING drivers behind you, and they light brighter as the brakes are hit. The biggest difference is the added brake light. Originally I used a larger bulb in the socket but it was too bright (figure 5.2). Putting a smaller bulb (like that used in the old running light socket) was perfect.
I will feel much more comfortable cruising around at night in my 300SD now knowing that people behind me will actually know I am there now, and know when I am braking. The addition of a center brake lamp will also compliment the enhanced visibility of this project, that is certainly on the list for me. I hope you guys find this useful!
Figures:
1.1, 1.2: The LED lamp that I used. Typical truck lamp.
Figure 3.1, 3.2: The aftermath of a lot of cutting/trimming
Figure 3.3: proof of concept hooked up to car battery
Figure 4.1: wired and ready for assembly
Figure 5.1 brakes on:
5.2: with the "euro" bulb that was too bright
- Using the ENTIRE tail light area as running lights, therefore increased visibility--meaning running lights are angled towards other drivers and not just the ground as stock is set up
- brighter and truer red color
- much quicker response time compared to normal bulbs
- using the typically blank euro fog lights for additional brake lights - increased visibility
- LEDs last much longer and usually do not have to be replaced as long as they are not subject to varying current
- Its really easy
Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any harm or damage as a result of your following these directions. I am not implying or expressing that these taillights may be street legal in your local area.
Ok, so here is what you need:
- figures 1.1, 1.2: a DOT-approved 3 prong LED taillamp from NAPA, the type that you see on trailers and trucks. Cost about $25 if I remember correctly. Mine was about 3.5" diameter, filling up the whole red area of the tail light
- w126 tail lamp assembly
- soldering iron plus flux, shrink wrap, solder, and bullet-type electrical pins
- some way to cut plastic. Doesn't need to be pretty. I used a dremel with a variety of tips
- super glue
- about 1-2 hours of time
1. Completely disassemble the tail lamp. You'll have to separate the gasket (good time to replace it too), lens assembly, "reflector" assembly, and the metal strip with light sockets.
2. cut out room for the LED lamp in the reflector assembly. This takes some time and patience to get perfectly right. I got it after about an hour of trimming. You have to make sure to take the middle light separator out. Interesting note is that the plastic is crudely painted "reflective" silver. I can't imagine it doing much good in terms of light reflectivity.
3. Eventually get the LED snug in the reflector assembly so that it presses up against the lens/refractors (figures 3.1, 3.2). A couple dabs of super glue to the reflector assembly will make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Secure the screws to the lens, making it all one piece again. A good idea to test out the LED on a car battery for proof of concept (figure 3.3)
4. Wiring! Everybody's favorite thing! Actually it couldn't get ANY easier than this. First off, take either the bulb socket for the running lamp or the taillight and snip the wire off of it. Put that bulb socket in the "blank" space, where the euro fog light would go. The LED bulb I had already had the appropriate connections molded into the plastic: "tail", "ground" and "brake".
Connect and solder:After that is all neatly done you can connect everything back up (figure 4.1)
- black and red wire to the "brake" connector. Solder this to a bullet type connector and plug in. Solder in another wire to the bullet connector (so it will have two coming off of it) and solder the other end to the socket you just popped in the euro fog spot. Having these two in series will trick the car into thinking there is no bulb out (LED resistance is negligible in comparison) and they will light in unison.
- Connect the Green/white wire to the "tail" plug via another bullet-type connector
- Solder the ground wire/bullet anywhere on the metal strip holding the bulb sockets. The whole thing is a ground.
5. Plug it in and try it out! (Figure 5.1) See the difference--I apologize my camera is NOT good at taking night shots so it is difficult to see. The camera actually makes it look a bit worse than stock but I can guarantee you in person the difference is dramatic. Remember that LEDs produce one wavelength of light and bulbs produce a spectrum, I think that whatever the wavelength is for these LEDs is not well reproduced by my cheap camera whereas the spectrum is sort of a "flood" of light. Anyways, I noticed the normal taillights are not only pointing down and using 1/4 or so of the available space, but they are also amber colored. Using the LEDs brought light to the entire surface including the part FACING drivers behind you, and they light brighter as the brakes are hit. The biggest difference is the added brake light. Originally I used a larger bulb in the socket but it was too bright (figure 5.2). Putting a smaller bulb (like that used in the old running light socket) was perfect.
I will feel much more comfortable cruising around at night in my 300SD now knowing that people behind me will actually know I am there now, and know when I am braking. The addition of a center brake lamp will also compliment the enhanced visibility of this project, that is certainly on the list for me. I hope you guys find this useful!
Figures:
1.1, 1.2: The LED lamp that I used. Typical truck lamp.
Figure 3.1, 3.2: The aftermath of a lot of cutting/trimming
Figure 3.3: proof of concept hooked up to car battery
Figure 4.1: wired and ready for assembly
Figure 5.1 brakes on:
5.2: with the "euro" bulb that was too bright
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